Dietician
Karolina Dobrowolska-Zrałka
Collagen accounts for up to 80 % of the dermis proteins and is a key element in maintaining its firmness, tension and hydration. This fibrous protein creates a scaffolding on which the entire skin structure is based - from the deep layers of the skin to the corneal layer of the epidermis. With age, the natural synthesis of collagen by fibroblasts slows down, and the degradation of the fibers accelerates under the influence of UV radiation, environmental pollution and oxidative stress. The result is the loss of elasticity, wrinkles and dryness and dullness of the skin.
Hydrolyzed collagen peptides supplementation and the use of cosmetics containing collagen peptides are the two most important ways to support the condition of the skin from the inside and from the outside. Clinical studies have shown that regularly taking 2.5-10 g of collagen peptides per day can increase the density of collagen fibers in the skin by more than 10 % within 4-8 weeks, while improving moisturizing and reduction of wrinkles depth.
In this article we will discuss:
- Mechanisms thanks to which collagen affects the firmness and tension of the skin,
- Influence of collagen on wrinkles and the degree of improvement in their visibility,
- The role of collagen in moisturizing the skin and cooperation with hyaluronic acid,
- Various forms of collagen available in supplements and cosmetics,
- Optimal dosage and method of collagen for the best effects,
- The period of application needed to achieve visible results,
- Contraindications and possible side effects of the use of collagen,
- Time after which the first changes in the appearance of the skin can be observed.
Thanks to the knowledge contained in this guide, you will learn what approach to combine - oral and local - to effectively stimulate fibroblasts, build a new collagen network and provide the skin with a younger, more radiant look.
How does collagen affect the appearance of the skin?
Collagen is a basic component of the extracellular matrix of the dermis. Its fibrillary network is a scaffold for cells - fibroblasts and keranocytes - and for other ECM ingredients, such as elastin and hyaluronic acid. In young skin, the process of synthesis and degradation of collagen is in balance: fibroblasts produce new prokolagen, and MMP enzymes break down damaged fragments of old fibers, enabling full renewal of the network.
With age, this balance is disturbed - production decreases and MMP activity increases. Collagen fibers become thinner, less connected and lose their ability to rebuild. The skin gradually loses tension, the effect is felt as flabby and visible furrows. Fibroblasts, which intensively synthesize collagen in their youth, become less efficient.
Collagen supplementation orally provides the body with ready peptides that go to the bloodstream and are recognized by fibroblast receptors. In vitro and clinical studies have shown that collagen peptides act as bioactive signals, stimulating fibroblasts to the renewal of the matrix. As a result, the density and quality of the fibers increases, which translates into a clearer face contour, better skin tension and smaller visible wrinkles.
At the same time, local collagen peptides applications in creams and serum reach the epidermis and the papillary layer of the dermis. Thanks to liposomal carriers or micronacle (micro -gear), peptides penetrate deeper, where they stimulate the synthesis of endogenous collagen and complement deficits in the ECM structure. Oral and local effects are synergistically: the skin is nourished both from the inside and from the outside.
To sum up: Collagen affects the appearance of the skin through:
- Stimulation of the production of new fibers by fibroblasts,
- Improving the density and quality of the collagen network,
- Strengthening cooperation with elastin and hyaluronic acid,
- Increasing tension and flexibility,
- Reduction of visibility of wrinkles and furrows.
Collagen and wrinkles
Wrinkles are the result of multi -stage processes: thinning of the collagen network, loss of elastin elasticity, reduction of hyaluronic acid and cell aging. They arise both as a result of the natural loss of collagen with age and the actions of external factors: UV, pollution, oxidative stress.
In clinical trials, supplementation with hydrolyzed collagen peptides showed the ability to reduce wrinkles depth by 10-20 % within 8-12 weeks. The mechanism is based on stimulation of fibroblasts to synthesis of type I and III collagen and proteoglycans, which fill the spaces between the fibers and "push" furrows from the inside.
Cosmetics with collagen peptides, such as palmitilotripeptide-1 or palmitilotetpeptide-7, work on a similar principle-they penetrate the skin structure and activate the genes responsible for the production of collagen and elastin. In combination with retinoids (e.g. retinol, tretinoin), the effects are faster: retinoids increase ecranocyte proliferation and ECM production, and peptides strengthen collagen synthesis.
To reduce wrinkles:
- Supplement 5-10 g of collagen peptides per day,
- Use creams with bioactive peptides and retinoids overnight,
- Protect the skin against UV SPF 50+ cream,
- Perform micro -gear every 4-6 weeks,
- Turn on a diet rich in vitamin C and antioxidants.
Collagen and skin hydration
The hydration of the skin depends on several factors: hyaluronic acid content, the integrity of the lipid barrier of the epidermis and NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor) level. Collagen indirectly supports hydration, stimulating fibroblasts to produce proteoglycans (scandal, dermatan, hepan), which bind water in extracellular matrix.
In addition, collagen peptides stimulate keranocytes to the synthesis of philagric, a key NMF component, which improves the skin's ability to retain water in the stratum corneum. In laboratory studies, the increase in gene expression associated with NMF synthesis reached 30 % after the exposure of cells to collagen peptides.
Cosmetics containing collagen hydrolyzate in combination with hyaluronic acid (low -molecular and saturated) have quick results: immediate tension and long -lasting hydration. Needle mesotherapy treatments with moisturizing cocktails (collagen + ha + vitamin B5) improve microcirculation and introduce ingredients deep into the skin.
To increase hydration:
- Use supplementation with collagen peptides 5 g in the morning and evening,
- Drink min. 2 liters of water a day,
- Use HA creams and collagen,
- Include blueberry fruits and deciduous vegetables rich in vitamin. C.
Collagen forms used on the skin
Collagen for external use occurs in the form of:
- Hydrolyzed collagen: small peptides, easily penetrating in the epidermis,
- Fish collagen: less molecular weight, higher bioactivity,
- Beef collagen: standard amino acid profile, stable molecule,
- Signaling peptides: Short sequences (e.g. palmitilotripeptide-1), activating fibroblasts,
- Nano-liposomes: penetration that increases,
- Microcapsules: gradual release,
- Hydlings and masks in the sheet: Prolonged hydration and constant contact with the skin.
When choosing a product, it is worth paying attention to the size of peptides (<1 KDA for the best penetration), for the presence of media (liposomes, nanoparticles) and whether the preparation contains additional ingredients supporting collagen synthesis: vit. C, copper, zinc, copper peptides.
Dosage of collagen to the skin
Local collagen products are usually applied once or twice a day on cleansed skin. The optimal concentration of peptides in cream is 2-5 %, in serum - 5-10 %. Masks in the sheet abundantly soaked in collagen are used 1-2 times a week for 15-20 minutes.
In the case of injection treatments (mesotherapy), the dose of cocktail with collagen is 2-5 ml, repeated every 4 weeks in a series of 3-5 treatments. Collagen peptides in liposomal media applied using Dermaroller improve penetration by 30-50 %.
The crucial is the simultaneous use of oral supplements (5-10 g per day) and creams with collagen to achieve the synergistic effect: reconstruction of ECM from the inside and supplement the deficit from the outside.
Time of use and the time the effects appear
The effects after hydrolyzed collagen supplementation are usually visible after 4-6 weeks of regularly taking 2.5-10 g per day. Leather ultrasound studies showed an increase in dermis thickness by 5-10 % after 8 weeks.
After applying creams with collagen peptides and hyaluronic acid, the first feeling of tension and hydration appears immediately (after a few minutes), and visible smoothing of fine wrinkles - after 2-4 weeks.
Micro -gear treatments with collagen give visible results after 2-3 sessions (4-6 weeks), and the full ECM remodeling effect is noticed after about 3 months, when the newly produced collagen fibers are stabilized with coinalent cross bonds.
Contraindications for the use of collagen on the skin
The main contraindications are:
- Allergies to the collagen source (fish, beef, poultry) - requires a lobe
- Active inflammation of the skin (dermatites, eczema, psoriasis) - postpone the treatments,
- Pregnancy and breastfeeding - consult a doctor,
- Skin autoimmune diseases - requires a dermatologist consultation,
- A tendency to keeloid scarring - injection treatments may intensify the reconstruction of fibers.
Possible side effects of the use of collagen
Locally, there may be:
- Gentle redness and burning - they usually disappear in an hour,
- Itching and peeling - with too strong concentrations of peptides or carriers,
- Allergic reactions - urticaria, swelling - rarer, when allergic to collagen proteins,
- Fyme inflammation - under unsanitary conditions of surgery.
Gastric (nausea, flatulence) were rarely reported after oral supplementation. In the event of adverse reactions, it is recommended to lower the dose and possible withdrawal for a few days.
How fast does collagen work on the skin?
The time of action depends on the form and method of administration:
- Orally - the first effects after 4-6 weeks, full after 10-12 weeks,
- Locally - tension and hydration immediately, smoothing fine wrinkles after 2-4 weeks,
- Treatments - micro -gear and mesotherapy give a remodeling effect after 8-12 weeks.
Regularity is crucial - both daily supplementation and the use of creams and cycles of treatments ensure long -term maintenance of effects.
Sources
- Proksch E. et al. Oral Supplementation of Specific Collagen Peptides has Beneficial Effects on Human Skin Physiology: a double -blind, placebo -condrolled study. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2014.
- Choi S.-Y. et al. Efists of Collagen Tripeptide Supplement on Skin Properties: A Prospective Study. J med food. 2014.
- Zague V. a New View Concerning the Efists of Collagen Hydrolysate Intake on Skin Properties. Arch Dermatol Res. 2008.
- Shinomura T. et al. Glycine and Proline Composition in Collagen-Related Tissues. J nutr sci vitaminol. 2003.
- Furukawa H. et al. The effect of collagen peptides ingestion on body composition and skin-aging parameters. J nutr sci vitaminol. 2017.
FAQ
How does collagen affect skin tension and firmness?
Collagen forms a network of fibers in extracellular matrix of the dermis, ensuring its tensile strength and elasticity. Collagen peptides stimulate fibroblasts to the synthesis of new fibers, which translates into increased tension and firmness.
After what time can you see the effects after collagen supplementation?
Oral supplementation with collagen peptides gives the first effects after 4-6 weeks of regular intake, and full improvement of fiber density and wrinkle reduction appear after 10-12 weeks.
Does collagen help with mimic wrinkles?
Yes - collagen peptides improve the density and structure of the fibers, which reduces the depth of mimic furrows. In combination with retinoids and fibroblasts stimulating treatments, the effects are more spectacular.
What form of collagen should you choose for the best penetration?
Hydrolyzed collagen peptides with molecular weight <1 KDA and fish collagen have the best action, because their smaller molecules more easily exceed the skin barrier.
Can I combine collagen with other active ingredients?
Yes - collagen works synergistically with hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, retinoids and antioxidants. The combination of various substances has more effectiveness than the use of one ingredient.
How often should a cream with collagen be used?
Creams with collagen peptides and hyaluronic acid should be applied twice a day - in the morning and evening - on cleansed skin to provide continuous support of the collagen network.
Is collagen suitable for sensitive skin?
Collagen peptides are usually well tolerated, but with sensitive skin it is worth choosing odorless products and test them on a small fragment of the skin. In the event of irritation, the frequency of application should be reduced.
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